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Free plush amigurumi JUMBO no sew turtle

by Free Crochet Patterns

Here’s one of my biggest patterns! (So far, at least) Sequoia the jumbo turtle. I really love this turtle because the legs are made to allow it to stand up, and the head does not tip the turtle over! The legs honestly are my favorite part about this pattern. They’re just so cute 🐢

If you enjoy this pattern, please give me a follow on social media and let me know what other free patterns you would love to see! Also, don’t forget to tag me in your creations!

You can also find this pattern as well as three other turtles, on my etsy if you prefer to purchase it! It’s formatted, clearer photos (uploading them to the blog lessens quality) and free of watermarks 😊

NOTES

Pattern is written in US terms.

Follow the pattern as written. 

This pattern is worked in continuous rounds, do not slip stitch after each round.

Use a stitch marker to indicate the beginning of your round if desired

The designer is right handed and uses the yarn under technique.

ABBREVIATIONS

mc- magic circle

ch- chain

tr- treble crochet

dec- decrease

inc- increase

() x#- repeat

sc- single crochet

slst- slip stitch

( )- stitch count

F/O- fasten off

BLO- back loops only

FLO- front loops only

MATERIALS

HOOK- 3.5 mm • US size E

YARN- Sweet Snuggles Lite by Loops & Threads. Color: mint, coastal dot

NOTIONS-

Scissors

Stitch marker

Darning needle

OTHER-

Polyfil

30mm safety eyes

PATTERN

HEAD

make one.

In mint 

Round 1. 8 sc into mc (8)

Round 2.  (inc) x8 (16)

Round 3.  (1 sc, inc) x8 (24)

Round 4.  (3 sc, inc) x6 (30)

Round 5. (4 sc, inc) x6 (36)

Round 6.  (5 sc, inc) x6 (42)

Round 7.  (6 sc, inc) x6 (48)

Round 8.  (7 sc, inc) x6 (54)

Rounds 9-12.  4 rounds of 54 sc

Insert safety eyes now in between rounds 6+7, 12/13 visible stitches apart. 

Round 13.  (4 sc, dec) x9 (45)

Round 14.  (3 sc, dec) x9 (36)

START STUFFING + SHAPING- continue to stuff + shape as you go 

Round 15.  (4 sc, dec) x6 (30)

Round 16.  (3 sc, dec) x6 (24)

Round 17. (2 sc, dec) x6 (18)

Round 18. 18 sc

STUFF AND SHAPE THE HEAD WELL

You may need to sc a stitch or few to make sure the eyes are in the middle when closing the head, check to make sure the eyes line up correctly on each side. 

Last Step. Fold the head in half like a sandwich and: 9 sc closed (9) If needed, crochet until you are in line with the eye before closing.

F/O. Leave a long yarn tail to pin the head onto the shell later on. The head will be crocheted into the body later on. However, with this turtle because it is MUCH larger than my other turtle patterns- I’ve found that attaching cotton or acrylic yarn is stronger than using the sweet snuggles lite to sew the head to the shell later on. 

LEGS

make four.

In mint 

Round 1. 8 sc into mc (8)

Round 2.  (inc) x8 (16)

Round 3.  (1 sc, inc) x8 (24)

Round 4.  (3 sc, inc) x6 (30)

Round 5. (4 sc, inc) x6 (36)

Rounds 6-7. 2 rounds of 36 sc

Round 8. (4 sc, dec) x6 (30)

Rounds 9-11. 3 rounds of 30 sc

Round 12. (3 sc, dec) x6 (24)

Lightly stuff + shape the leg now, do not stuff anymore going forward 

Round 13. (4 sc, dec) x4 (20)

Round 14. dec, 16 sc, dec (18)

Round 15. 18 sc

Last Step. Fold the leg in half like a sandwich and: 9 sc closed (9) 

F/O. Leave a short yarn tail. The legs will be crocheted into the body later on.

TAIL

make one.

In mint 

Round 1. 6 sc into mc (6)

Round 2. (inc) x6 (12)

Rounds 3-4. 2 rounds of 12 sc (24 sc total)

Round 5. (1 sc, inc) x6 (18)

Do not stuff 

Round 6. dec, 14 sc, dec (16)

Last Step. Fold the tail in half like a sandwich and: 8 sc closed (8) 

F/O. Leave a short yarn tail. The tail will be crocheted into the body later on.

SHELL

Starting in coastal dot 

Round 1. 8 sc into mc (8)

Round 2. (inc) x8 (16)

Round 3. (1 sc, inc) x8 (24)

Round 4. (2 sc, inc) x8 (32)

Round 5. (3 sc, inc) x8 (40)

Round 6. (4 sc, inc) x8 (48)

Round 7. (5 sc, inc) x8 (56)

Round 8. (6 sc, inc) x8 (64)

Round 9. (7 sc, inc) x8 (72)

Round 10. (8 sc, inc) x8 (80)

Round 11. (9 sc, inc) x8 (88)

Rounds 12-21. 10 rounds of 88 sc

CC to mint & F/O coastal dot 

Round 22. BLO (whole round, mark the first FLO for later)- the yarn tail from closing the legs should be facing the front of the body, the yarn tail from the head & tail do not have to placed a specific way. 2 sc, crochet head into body with 9 sc, 4 sc, crochet first leg into body with 9 sc, 8 sc, crochet second leg into body with 9 sc, 6 sc, crochet tail into body with 8 sc, 6 sc, crochet third leg into body with 9 sc, 8 sc, crochet last leg into body with 9 sc, 1 sc (88) make sure the long tail from the head is out of the shell/body so you can sew the head in place later on

Round 23. (9 sc, dec) x8 (80)

Round 24. (8 sc, dec) x8 (72)

Round 25. (7 sc, dec) x8 (64)

Round 26. (6 sc, dec) x8 (56)

Stuff the shell and body well now, make sure it’s nice and round 

Round 27. (5 sc, dec) x8 (48)

Continue to stuff and shape 

Round 28. (4 sc, dec) x8 (40)

Round 29. (3 sc, dec) x8 (32)

Round 30. (2 sc, dec) x8 (24)

Continue to stuff and shape 

Round 31. (2 sc, dec) x6 (18)

Round 32. (1 sc, dec) x6 (12)

Round 33. (dec) x6 (6)

F/O. Close. Weave in ends. 

FINISHING DETAILS

In coastal dot

Round 1. in the FLO of round 22, with the shell facing you, slst into the 1st sc of the round, ch3, 88 tr around LOOSELY. slst into the 1st tr of the round  to join. Ch 1 and F/O. Weave in your ends. NOTE: if you prefer to do double crochet instead, this is fine. A tester said it showed the tail more for them! 

FINISHING DETAILS

PIN the head into place on the shell using the long yarn tail from the head. I do this between rounds 13-14 of the shell but feel free to pin the head in place where it looks best to you. Because the head of sequoia is very big, you may have to secure a little bit more by sewing. I use cotton yarn to do this. 

Congratulations! You finished making Sequoia the jumbo turtle!

I hope you enjoyed this pattern and found it easy to follow, I look forward to sharing more patterns with you, hope to see you soon! 🐢

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Free plush amigurumi classic bunny crochet pattern

by Free Crochet Patterns

I’ve wanted to start a blog specific free body style pattern, and decided that’ll be my Classic Collection. Up first, is this sweet classic bunny! Featuring long legs, arms & a removable dress 🫶🏻 This collection has been in the works for sometime now so I hope you enjoy the first pattern!!

If you enjoy this pattern, please give me a follow on social media and let me know what other free patterns you would love to see! Also, don’t forget to tag me in your creations! 🧶

You can also find this pattern on my etsy if you prefer to purchase it! It’s formatted and free of watermarks 😊

NOTES

Pattern is written in US terms.

Follow the pattern as written.

This pattern is worked in continuous rounds, do not slip stitch after each round.

Use a stitch marker to indicate the beginning of your round if desired.

The designer is right handed and uses the yarn under technique.

ABBREVIATIONS

mc- magic circle

ch- chain

dec- decrease (I use the invisible decrease method)

inc- increase

( ) x#- repeat

sc- single crochet

slst- slip stitch

( )- stitch count

F/O- fasten off

hdc- half double crochet

MATERIALS

HOOK: 4mm

YARN: Premier Yarns Basix Chenille in the colors Caramel & Anemone. Also black cotton yarn for embroidering the nose & mouth

NOTIONS: scissors, stitch marker, darning needle

OTHER: polyfil, 14mm safety eyes

Now let’s go to the fun part- the pattern!!!!

PATTERN

EARS

Make two

in caramel

Round 1. 4 sc into mc (4)

Round 2. (1 sc, inc) x2 (6)

Round 3. (2 sc, inc) x2 (8)

Rounds 4-8. 5 rounds of 8 sc

do not stuff

Last step. fold the ear in half, like a sandwich, and close with: 4 sc (4)

F/O. Leave a long yarn tail. You’ll sew onto the head later on.

ARMS

Make two.

in caramel

Round 1. 4 sc into mc (4)

Round 2. (inc) x4 (8)

Rounds 3-4. 2 rounds of 8 sc

Round 5. (2 sc, dec) x2 (6)

Lightly stuff the arm, don’t stuff anymore going forward

Rounds 6-12. 7 rounds of 6 sc

Last step. Fold the arm in half, like a sandwich, and sc the arm closed with: dec, 1 sc (2)

F/O. Leave a short yarn tail. You’ll crochet onto the body later on.

LEGS

Make two.

in caramel

Round 1. 4 sc into mc (4)

Round 2. (inc) x4 (8)

Rounds 3-6. 4 rounds of 8 sc

Round 7. (2 sc, dec) x2 (6)

Lightly stuff the foot, continue to stuff every 2 rounds going forward

Rounds 8-19. 12 rounds of 6 sc

F/O the first leg only, do not fasten off the second.

Leave a long yarn tail. You’ll use it to sew up the hole in between the legs later on

BODY

in caramel

Round 1. ch 3, connect the first leg to the second leg with: 1 sc, 5 more sc around the second leg, 3 sc into the ch, 6 sc around first leg, 3 sc into the ch (18)

Rounds 2-5. 4 rounds of 18 sc

stuff + shape

sew hole closed between legs now

Round 6. 3 sc, dec, 7 sc, dec, 4 sc (16)

stuff + shape, continue to stuff + shape after every round

Round 7. 16 sc

Round 8. 3 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, 3 sc (14)

Round 9. 3 sc, dec, 5 sc, dec, 2 sc (12)

In the next round you may have to adjust arm placement depending on how your work spirals- this is ok!

Round 10. 3 sc, crochet arm in with: 1 sc, dec, 3 sc, crochet arm in with: 1 sc, dec (10)

HEAD

Round 11. (inc) x10 (20)

Round 12. 3 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, 5 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, 2 sc (24)

Rounds 13-16. 4 rounds of 24 sc

Insert safety eyes between rounds 14 + 15, about 3-4 visible stitches apart

Round 17. 3 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 5 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 2 sc (20)

Stuff and shape, continue to stuff and shape after every round

Round 18. (8 sc, dec) x2 (18)

Round 19. (1 sc, dec) x6 (12)

Round 20. (dec) x6 (6)

F/O, close. Weave in ends.

DRESS

in anemone

Round 1. ch 24, before joining: check to make sure your chain will fit around the bunnies waist- if not change your tension OR go down a hook size. If you need to chain more or less this is ok- just follow the construction of the pattern – slst to 1 st ch to join into the round, make sure the chain isn’t twisted when joining.

Round 2. ch 2, 2 hdc in same stitch as ch 2, 3 hdc in each ch around

Round 3. slst to join, ch 2, hdc around

F/O. Weave in ends.

ADDING STRAPS

Place the skirt portion around the bunnies waist, slst into the front of the skirt, close to where the arm lays and ch however many needed to get to the back of the dress, slst into the back of the dress, you will be crisscrossing the straps in the back. F/O first strap and weave in your ends. Repeat once more for second strap.

BOW

in anemone

Row 1. ch 7, starting in the 2nd ch from the hook: 6 hdc down the ch, ch 1

Row 2. turn your work, 6 hdc

F/O. Weave in ends.

Cut off a long piece of the yarn you used to make the bow and tie it around the middle of the bow.

ASSEMBLY

SEW each ear closed together at the bottom, you had 4 sc to close the ear and you will now be using those 4 sc to “fold” the ear closed at the bottom. you will then sew each ear to the middle of the top of the head onto round 19-20. Make sure each ear is close to touching each other.

EMBROIDER on a nose and mouth with black cotton yarn, as pictured.

SEW the bow onto the head, very close to an ear.

I hope you enjoyed this pattern and found it easy to follow. I look forward to sharing more patterns with you, hope to see you soon!

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Free plush Mermaid crochet pattern- NO SEW

by Free Crochet Patterns

Summer is creeping around the corner! And I wanted to share my mermaid crochet pattern! Bonus: it’s no sew 😉 🧜🏻‍♀️

If you enjoy this pattern, please give me a follow on social media and let me know what other free patterns you would love to see! Also, don’t forget to tag me in your creations. Happy crocheting!! 🧶

You can also purchase the instant download PDF version of this pattern on my etsy. I also have a baby mermaid pattern too- that has YouTube tutorials- it’s a smaller pattern than this one! Alright, let’s get to it!!

MATERIALS & TOOLS

-Premier yarns parfait chunky in the colors:

•skin color- skin color options in parfait chunky could be: shell, teddy bear, toffee, chocolate, mushroom, cream

•tail color & hair color

•top color

-Safety Eyes: 16mm

-Darning needle

-Scissors

-Polyfil

-3.5mm/4mm hook

ABBREVIATIONS

sc- single crochet

dec- decrease

inc- increase

mc- magic circle

sl st- slip stitch

F/O- finish off

BLO- back loops ONLY

How to read instructions:

The instructions written between * * and followed by x# will be repeated that many times. For example *inc* x12. You will increase 12 times.

!! PLEASE NOTE THAT IN ORDER FOR THE HAIR TO CURL YOU MUST USE A CHENILLE TYPE YARN. THE HAIR WILL NOT CURL BY ITSELF IN OTHER TYPES OF YARNS!!

This pattern is worked in continuous rounds. Do not slip stitch unless stated to do so. The pattern is written is US terminology. I am right handed and used the yarn under technique. 
  • DO NOT publish or sell this pattern in any form, if you’re sharing a pattern with a friend please share my blog with them
  • You may sell creations made from this pattern
  • I love seeing my patterns created by others! Please tag me in your creations 🫶🏻

FREE NO SEW MERMAID CROCHET PATTERN

Arms

MAKE TWO

Shell:

1. 4 sc into mc (4)

2. *inc* x4 (8)

3-12. 10 rounds of 8 sc

—Do not stuff, fold in half

13. *dec* x2 to close by going through both sets of stitches (2)

—F/O and leave a short yarn tail

Fins

MAKE TWO.

Tail color:

1. 5 sc into mc (5)

2. inc, 2 sc, inc, 1 sc (7)

3. 7 sc

4. inc, 3 sc, inc, 2 sc (9)

5. *2 sc, inc* x3 (12)

6. 12 sc

7.*2 sc, dec* x3 (9)

8. *1 sc, dec* x3 (6)

—fasten off the first fin, not thesecond fin

9. Connect the second fin to the first fin with a sc, continue to sc around both fins (12)

Tail & Body

Continue in tail color:

10. *dec* x6 (6)

— close up the hole between the fins

11. 6 sc

12. *1 sc, inc* x3 (9)

13. *2 sc, inc* x3 (12)

14. *1 sc, inc* x6 (18)

15-17. 3 rounds of 18 sc

18. *2 sc, inc* x6 (24)

19-21. 3 rounds of 24 sc

—start stuffing and shaping the tail

—before color changing to skin color you will sc as many stitches as needed IN TAIL COLOR to get your color change to the back of the doll, the number needed will vary depending on how your work spirals. For my case, this was 4 sc.

Color change to skin color:

22. 20 sc (24) —remember, I previously used 4 sc to get the color change to the back of my mermaid. 4+20= 24. AGAIN: this number will VARY

23. 24 sc

—stuff and shape

24. *2 sc, dec* x6 (18)

—before color changing to top color you will sc as many stitches as needed IN SKIN COLOR to get your color change to the back of the doll, the number needed will vary depending on how your work spirals. For my case, this was 6 sc.

Body continued:

Color change to top color:

25. 12 sc —remember, I previously used 6 sc to get the color change to the back of my mermaid. 6+12=18. AGAIN: this number will VARY

26-27. 2 rounds of 18 sc

—stuff and shape

—before color changing to skin color you will continue the next step for as many stitches as needed IN TOP COLOR to get your color change to the back of the mermaid, the number needed will vary depending on how your work spirals. You will be doing: *1 sc, dec* x6 (12) For my case, to get the color change in the back I had to do: 1 sc, dec, 1 sc, dec, 1 sc (5)

Color change to skin color:

28. dec, 1 sc, dec, 1 sc, dec, 1 sc, dec (12) —remember, I previously used (1 sc, dec, 1 sc, dec, 1 sc) to get the color change to the back of my mermaid. 5+7=12. AGAIN: this number will VARY

29. 1 sc, connect arm with 2 sc, 5 sc, connect arm with 2 sc, 2 sc (12)

—STUFF

—you may have to adjust arm placement

Head

30. *inc* x12 (24)

31. *3 sc, inc* x6 (30)

32-35. 4 rounds of 30 sc

—for the next round before color changing to hair color you will continue the next step for as many stitches as needed IN SKIN COLOR to get your color change to the back of the mermaid, the number needed will vary depending on how your work spirals. For my case, to get the color change in the back I had to do: 11 sc

Color change to hair color:

36. 19 sc (30) —remember, I previously used 11 sc to get the color change to the back of my mermaid. 11+19=30. AGAIN: this number will VARY

37. 30 sc

38. In the BLO *3 sc, dec* x6 (24)

–eyes between rounds 34 & 35- FIVE visible stitches apart

39. *2 sc, dec*x6 (18)

—start stuffing and CONTINUE to stuff and shape

40.*1 sc, dec* x6 (12)

41. *dec* x6 (6)

—close the hole shut

Connecting the hair

In hair color:

1. Slip Stitch into the FRONT LOOPS of the round we previously were crocheting into the BLO in. RIGHT ABOVE THE LEFT EYE

2. After slip stitching, pull up a long loop, the hair will “curl” naturally IF using chenille yarn

3. Slip stitch into the very next stitch and pull up a long loop again. REPEAT this around the head: slip stitch & pulling up long loops. At the BACK of the head: do 2 hair strands per front loop

Hair continued & nose

4. Fill in the back of the head completely. Then when you get back to the front of the mermaid: pull very LONG loops to create bangs

5. Secure the bangs to the side of the head with the hair strands that are already on the side and then stitch on a nose in between the eyes. Covering 3 stitches.

CONGRATULATIONS! YOU FINISHED YOUR MERMAID!

I hope you enjoyed this pattern and found it easy to follow. I look forward to sharing more patterns with you, hope to see you soon!

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Baby frog free plush amigurumi pattern

by Free Crochet Patterns

I don’t know about you but I think frogs are just so cute! Make it a crochet frog and it’s instantly even cuter!

Baby frog is apart of my baby collection, which you can find all of my baby patterns on my Etsy! You can purchase the instant download PDF version of this pattern & other patterns in the baby body style collection.

If you enjoy this pattern, please give me a follow on social media and let me know what other free patterns you would love to see! Also, don’t forget to tag me in your creations! 🧶

NOTES

•Pattern is written in US terms.

•The pattern is worked in continuous rounds, do not slip stitch after each round.

• If desired, use a stitch marker to indicate the beginning of your round.

•Asterisks (* *) indicate repeats.

• The designer is right handed and uses the yarn under technique.

MATERIALS

HOOK

3.5 mm

YARN

Premier Yarns Parfait Chunky

Weight 6. Color: Key Lime

NOTIONS

Scissors

Stitch marker

Darning needle

16 mm safety eyes

OTHER

Polyfil

ABBREVIATIONS

mc- magic circle

dec- decrease (I use the invisible decrease method)

inc- increase

* *- repeate

sc- single crochet

( )- stitch count

F/O- fasten off

  • DO NOT publish or sell this pattern in any form, if you’re sharing a pattern with a friend please share my blog with them
  • You may sell creations made from this pattern
  • I love seeing my patterns created by others!
    Please tag me in your creations

BABY FROG FREE CROCHET PATTERN

ARMS

make two

In key lime

Round 1. 6 sc into mc (6)

Rounds 2-5. 4 rounds of 6 sc

Do not stuff

Round 6. Fold the arm in half at the top, like a sandwich, and close with: 3 sc (3)

F/O. Leave a short yarn tail. You’ll be crocheting the arms into the body later on.

EYE PIECES

make two

in key lime

Round 1. 5 sc into mc (5)

Round 2. *inc* x5 (10)

Rounds 3-4. 2 rounds of 10 sc

F/O leaving a long yarn tail, you will sew the eyes to the head later on. The safety eyes & stuffing will be done during assembly.

.

LEGS

make two

in key lime

Round 1. 6 sc into mc (6)

Round 2. *inc* x6 (12)

Round 3-5. 3 rounds of 12 sc

F/O the FIRST LEG WITH A SLIP STITCH AFTER COMPLETING THE SC (do not slip stitch into the next stitch) and leave a short yarn tail (there will be step by step photos on how to not have a gap in between the legs when connecting them) if you’re not comfortable doing it this way, leave a long yarn tail to sew the gap between the legs closed later on.

Video tutorial

DO NOT fasten off the second leg. Before completing the last sc of the second leg move onto connecting the legs.

CONNECTING THE LEGS

Round 6

Step 1. before completing your last sc on the second leg join into round 4 of the first leg where you fastened off at

Step 2. pull up a loop and create a decrease, this will be the last stitch of your second leg

Step 3. 12 sc around the first leg BUT before completing your 12th single crochet, connect to the second leg the SAME way as in steps 1 & 2- by doing a decrease

Step 4. 12 sc around the second leg

Total stitches: 24 sc

IF NOT USING THIS METHOD: just connect the legs by single crocheting around each leg and then close up the gap later on (24 stitches)

BODY

Round 7. 1 round of 24 sc

stuff the legs now

Round 8. *2 sc, dec* x6 (18)

stuff again after decreasing and continue to stuff and shape the body after every 1-2 rounds

Rounds 9-11. 3 rounds of 18 sc

It’s important to stuff and shape well so you get the desired body shape

Round 12. *1 sc, dec* x6 (12)

stuff and shape

you will be crocheting the arms into the next round

Round 13. 3 sc on body, 3 sc while attaching the arm, 3 sc on body, 3 sc while attaching the arm (12)

stuff

NOTE: you may have to adjust your arm placement depending on how your work spirals

HEAD

Round 14. *inc* x12 (24)

Round 15. *3 sc, inc* x6 (30)

Rounds 16-19. 4 rounds of 30 sc

Round 20. *3 sc, dec* x6 (24)

start stuffing & shaping the head now and continue to stuff and shape after every round going forward

Round 21. *2 sc, dec* x6 (18)

Round 22. *1 sc, dec* x6 (12)

Round 23. * dec* x6 (6)

sew the hole closed on the top of the head.

Fasten off and hide your yarn tail

ASSEMBLY

Place the safety eyes into the eye pieces now, between rounds 2 & 3

Sew the eye pieces onto the head, approximately 2 rounds away from the center of the head. Make sure your eyes are placed correctly so that they’re not lopsided or uneven. STUFF them while sewing them on, I wait until I have about 4 stitches left to do this.

Patience is key here. I use a sewing needle to hold the eye in the correct place so that it doesn’t move too much while sewing, you can also use knitting needles to help with this step too. You can add a mouth if you’d like. After this, your baby frog is complete! 🐸

I hope you really enjoyed this pattern and found the instructions easy to follow. I look forward to sharing more patterns with you, hope to see you back soon!

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Itty belly cow free crochet plush amigurumi pattern

by Free Crochet Patterns

Itty belly cow is such a teeny cute design! It’s one of my favorite in my itty belly collection, which can be found on my Etsy! It’s no secret that I’m absolutely cow obsessed- no joke every new body style I come up with I absolutely always have to make a cow 🫣

If you enjoy this pattern, please give me a follow on social media and let me know what other free patterns you would love to see! Also, don’t forget to tag me in your creations on instagram 🧶

You can purchase the instant download PDF version of this pattern on my Etsy. I have quite a few patterns in this exact style too! Now- let’s get to crocheting shall we? 🐮

NOTES

•Pattern is written in US terms.

•Follow the pattern as written.

•This pattern is worked in continuous rounds, do notslip stitch after each round.

•Use a stitch marker to indicate the beginning of yourround.

•The designer is right handed and uses the yarn undertechnique.

ABBREVIATIONS

mc- magic circle 

CC- color change 

ch- chain

dec- decrease (I use the invisible decrease method)

inc- increase

() x#- repeat

sc- single crochet 

slst- slip stitch

( )- stitch count

F/O- fasten off 

MATERIALS

HOOK

3.5 mm • US size E

YARN

Sweet Snuggles Lite & Chenille Home Slim

Colors:

sweet snuggles lite- white, black, & bare pink

chenille home slim- sand

Cotton yarn in black (for embroidering eyebrows)

NOTIONS

Scissors

Stitch marker

Darning needle

OTHER

14 mm safety eyes

Polyfil

  • DO NOT publish or sell this pattern in any form, if you’re sharing a pattern with a friend please share my blog with them
  • You may sell creations made from this pattern
  • I love seeing my patterns created by others!
    Please tag me in your creations

ITTY BELLY COW FREE CROCHET PATTERN

ARMS

make two.

in black

Round 1. 6 sc into mc (6)

Round 2. 1 round of 6 sc

CC to white

Rounds 3-6. 4 rounds of 6 sc

do not stuff

Last step Fold the arm in half, like a sandwich, and close with: 3 sc (3) 

F/O. Leave a short yarn tail. You’ll crochet the arms into the body later on.

MUZZLE

in bare pink

Round 1. ch 4. Starting in the 2nd ch from hook: inc, 1 sc, 4 sc in last ch. On the bottom side of the ch: 1 sc, inc (10)

Round 2. 10 sc

F/O. Leave long tail to sew. Muzzle will be stuffed very lightly during assembly.

HORNS

make two.

in sand

Round 1. 6 sc into mc 

Round 2. 6 sc

F/O. Leave long tail to sew.

Stuff lightly, or just use the beginning tail from the magic circle.

EARS

make two.

One in white, one in black

Round 1. 6 sc into mc (6)

tip: crochet over the tail from the magic circle in the next round, it secures it & hides it better this way.

Round 2. (inc) x6 (12)

Round 3. 1 round of 12 sc

Last step. Fold the ear in half, with the wrong side together, like a sandwich and close with 2 sc. Leave additional stitches unworked.

F/O. Leave short tail, the ears will be crocheted into the head.

LEG ONE

in black

Round 1. 4 sc into mc (4)

Round 2. *inc* x4 (8)

Round 3. 1 round 8 sc

CC to white

Round 4. 1 round of 8 sc

F/O. Leave tail to close space between legs.

LEG TWO

in black

Round 1. 4 sc into mc (4)

Round 2. *inc* x4 (8)

Round 3.  1 round 8 sc

CC to white

Round 4. 1 round 8 sc

Do not F/O.

CONNECTING LEGS

Round 5

Step 1. ch 2

Step 2. Connect to 1st leg with 1 sc (1)

Step 3. 7 sc around 1st leg (8)

Step 4. 1 sc placed in each ch spot (10)

Step 5. 8 sc around 2nd leg (18)

Step 6. 1 sc placed into each ch spot (20)

20 stitches total

BODY

continue in white

Round 6. 7 sc, (inc) x4, 9 sc (24)

Rounds 7-8. 2 rounds of 24 sc

Sew the hole closed between the legs now

Round 9. (2 sc, dec) x6 (18)

Stuff and shape belly

Rounds 10-11. 2 rounds of 18 sc

Round 12. (1 sc, dec) x6 (12)

In the next round you may have to adjust your placement for the arms depending on how your work spirals 

Round 13. 3 sc, attach arm with 3 sc, 3 sc, attach arm with 3 sc (12)

Continue stuffing

HEAD

Round 14. (inc) x12 (24)

Round 15. 9 sc, inc, 11 sc, inc, 2 sc (26)

Rounds 16-19. 4 rounds of 26 sc

Place eyes between 17 + 18, 3 visible stitches apart

In the next round you may have to adjust your placement for the ears depending on how your work spirals

Round 20. 9 sc, dec, connect black ear with 2 sc, 9 sc, dec, connect white ear with 2 sc (24)

Stuff and shape

Round 21. (2 sc, dec) x6 (18)

Round 22. (1 sc, dec) x6 (12)

Round 23. (dec) x6 (6)

F/O, close. Weave in ends.

FINISHING DETAILS

SEW muzzle between the eyes

SEW horns to top of the head, starting 1 round above the ears

EMBROIDER eyebrows in black cotton yarn

Congratulations!! You’ve finished creating your itty belly cow. I hope you really enjoyed this pattern and found the instructions easy to follow. I look forward to sharing more patterns with you, hope to see you back soon!

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Wolf free crochet plush amigurumi pattern

by Free Crochet Patterns

Wynter the wolf is such a fun pattern! With her floppy limbs and cute little belly she’s perfect for little toddler hands (or big kids and adults… no judging here!)

If you enjoy this pattern, please give me a follow on social media and let me know what other free patterns you would love to see! Also, don’t forget to tag me in your creations on instagram 🧶

You can also purchase the instant download PDF version of this pattern on my etsy. I have quite a few patterns in this exact style too! Now- let’s get to creating the magic!! 🐺

NOTES

  • Pattern is written in US terms.
  • The pattern is worked in continuous rounds, do not slip stitch after each round.
  • If desired, use a stitch marker to indicate the
    beginning of your round.
  • Asterisks (* *) indicate repeats.
  • The designer is right handed and uses the yarn under technique.

ABBREVIATIONS

mc- magic circle

dec- decrease (I use the invisible decrease method)

inc- increase

* *- repeat

sc- single crochet

( )- stitch count

F/O- fasten off

MATERIALS

HOOK

4 mm

YARN

Knotty Ball Yarn by Kayla’s Krafts

Color: Smoke and White

NOTIONS

Scissors

Stitch marker

Darning needle

16 mm safety eyes

OTHER

Polyfil

GAUGE

Gauge is not important. Be sure to use a hook size that you’re comfortable using with your selected yarn & personal tension.

  • DO NOT publish or sell this pattern in any form, if you’re sharing a pattern with a friend please share my blog with them
  • You may sell creations made from this pattern
  • I love seeing my patterns created by others!
    Please tag me in your creations

WYNTER THE WOLF FREE CROCHET PATTERN

MUZZLE

make one.

In white

Round 1. 6 sc into mc

Round 2. *1 sc, inc* x3 (9)

Round 3. *2 sc, inc* x3 (12)

Round 4. *3 sc, inc* x3 (15)

Round 5. 15 sc

F/O. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing. The muzzle does get stuffed, I do this during assembly.

EARS

make two.

In smoke

Round 1. 4 sc into mc (4)

Round 2. *1 sc, inc* x2 (6)

Round 3. 6 sc

Round 4. *1 sc, inc* x3 (9)

Round 5. *2 sc, inc* x3 (12)

Rounds 6-7. 2 rounds of 12 sc

Round 8. Fold the ear in half, like a sandwich, and sc closed with: 6 sc (6)

F/O. Leave a long yarn tail. You’ll sew the ears to the head during assembly.

TAIL

make one.

In white

Round 1. 4 sc into mc (4)

Round 2. *1 sc, inc* x2 (6)

Round 3. *1 sc, inc* x3 (9)

Round 4. *2sc, inc* x3 (12)

Round 5. 12 sc

Round 6. *3 sc, inc* x3 (15)

Color change to smoke

Round 7. *2 sc, inc* x5 (20)

Rounds 8-12. 5 rounds of 20 sc

start stuffing the tail now

Round 13. *3 sc, dec* x4 (16)

Round 14-15. 2 rounds of 16 sc

stuff the tail and don’t stuff anymore going forward

Round 16. *2 sc, dec* x4 (12)

Rounds 17-18. 2 rounds of 12 sc

Round 19. *1 sc, dec* x4 (8)

Round 20. Fold the tail in half, like a sandwich, and sc closed with: 4 sc (4)

F/O with a short yarn tail. You’ll crochet the tail into the body later on.

ARMS

make two.

Starting in white

Round 1. 4 sc into mc (4)

Round 2. *inc* x4 (8)

Round 3. *1 sc, inc* x4 (12)

Round 4-5. 2 rounds of 12 sc

Round 6. *1 sc, dec* x4 (8)

stuff the hand only

Rounds 7-10. 4 rounds of 8 sc

Color change to Smoke

Round 11-15. 5 rounds of 8 sc

Round 16. Fold the arm in half, like a sandwich, and *dec* x2 closed (2)

F/O with a short yarn tail. You’ll crochet the arms into the body later on.

LEG ONE

Starting in white

Round 1. 6 sc into mc (6)

Round 2. *inc* x6 (12)

Round 3. *1 sc, inc* x6 (18)

Rounds 4-5. 2 rounds of 18 sc

Round 6. 5 sc, *dec* x4, 5 sc (14)

Round 7. 5 sc, *dec* x2, 5 sc (12)

Round 8. *1 sc, dec* x4 (8)

Stuff foot only

Rounds 9-11. 3 rounds of 8 sc

Color change to Smoke

Rounds 12-16. 5 rounds of 8 sc

NOTE: you may have to add or take out a few single crochets to get the foot to face forwards and not be pointing outwards or inwards.

Round 17. Fold the leg in half, like a sandwich, and close with: 4 sc (4)

F/O. Leave a short yarn tail. You’ll crochet the leg into the body later on.

LEG TWO

Starting in white

Round 1. 6 sc into mc (6)

Round 2. *inc* x6 (12)

Round 3. *1 sc, inc* x6 (18)

Rounds 4-5. 2 rounds of 18 sc

Round 6. 5 sc, *dec* x4, 5 sc (14)

Round 7. 5 sc, *dec* x2, 5 sc (12)

Round 8. *1 sc, dec* x4 (8)

Stuff foot only

Rounds 9-11. 3 rounds of 8 sc

Round 12. 3 sc IN WHITE, now COLOR CHANGE TO SMOKE and complete 5 sc (8)

Rounds 13-16. 4 rounds of 8 sc

NOTE: you may have to add or take out a few single crochets to get the foot to face forwards and not bepointing outwards or inwards.

Round 17. Fold the leg in half, like a sandwich, and close with: 4 sc (4)

F/O. Leave a short yarn tail. You’ll crochet the leg into the body later on.

BODY

In Smoke

Round 1. 6 sc into mc (6)

Round 2. *inc* x6 (12)

Round 3. *1 sc, inc* x6 (18)

Round 4. *2 sc, inc* x6 (24)

You will be crocheting the legs to the body in the next round. MAKE SURE THE TOES ARE FACING THE CORRECT DIRECTION.

TIP: I crochet over my yarn tails from the legs, that way there are no pesky yarn tails possibly popping through later on.

Round 5. 4 sc, 4 sc FIRST LEG to body, 8 sc, 4 sc SECOND LEG to body, 2 sc, 2 sc with tail (24) (Picture A,B & C)

Round 6. 2 sc with rest of tail, 7 sc, *inc* x6, 9 sc (30)

Rounds 7-9. 3 rounds of 30 sc

Round 10. 10 sc, *dec* x6, 8 sc (24)

Begin to stuff and shape the belly (picture D). Continue to stuff and shape body after every 2 rounds.

Rounds 11-12. 2 rounds of 24 sc

Round 13. *2 sc, dec* x6 (18)

Round 14. 18 sc

Round 15. *1 sc, dec* x6 (12)

You will be crocheting the arms to the body in the next round, you may have to adjust your arm placement.

TIP: I crochet over my yarn tails from the arms, that way there are no pesky yarn tails possibly popping through later on.

Round 16. 4 sc, 2 sc arm to body, 4 sc, 2 sc arm to body BEFORE COMPLETING LAST SC COLOR CHANGE TO WHITE (12) (picture E on page 7)

HEAD

Starting in white

Round 17. *inc* x12 (24)

Round 18. *3 sc, inc* x6 (30)

Round 19. *4 sc, inc* x6 (36)

Rounds 20-21. 2 rounds of 36 sc

Color change to Smoke

Rounds 22-24. 3 rounds of 36 sc

Round 25. *4 sc, dec* x6 (30)

If you are using safety eyes, place them now between Rounds 22 and 23, FIVE visible stitches apart (see picture F)

Round 26. 30 sc

Round 27. *3 sc, dec* x6 (24)

Round 28. *2 sc, dec* x6 (18)

Round 29. *1 sc, dec* x6 (12)

Round 30. *dec* x6 (6)

F/O. Leave a long yarn tail and close the head. Weave in your ends.

ASSEMBLY

MUZZLE is sewn between the eyes as pictured, don’t forget to stuff

EMBORIDER a nose with smoke colored yarn

EARS are sewn to the side of the head as pictured

CONGRATULATIONS! You’ve completed your Wynter the wolf! I hope you enjoyed creating your wolf with this pattern, I look forward to sharing more patterns with you!

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Elephant snuggler LOW SEW free plush crochet pattern

by Free Crochet Patterns

Snugglers seem to be something that’s super popular! I made a few patterns not too long ago, and they’re available in my archive etsy shop as a bundle: the elephant & bear for $1.50. I also have a few other snuggler designs in my main etsy shop

If you enjoy this pattern, please give me a follow on social media and let me know what other free patterns you would love to see! Also, don’t forget to tag me in your creations on instagram. Anyways enough rambling, let’s get to creating! 🧶

NOTES

•Pattern is written in US terms.

•The pattern is worked in continuous rounds, do not slip stitch after each round.

•The Snuggle Elephant is worked in gray yarn, unless where a color change is noted.

•If desired, use a stitch marker to indicate the beginning of your round.

•Asterisks (* *) indicate repeats.

•The designer is right handed and uses the yarn under technique.

ABBREVIATIONS

mc- magic circle

dec- decrease

inc- increase

hdc- half double crochet

hdc dec- half double crochet decrease

* *- repeat

sc- single crochet

( )- stitch count

F/O- fasten off

cc- color change

bobble- bobble stitch

MATERIALS

HOOK

7mm

YARN

Weight 6 – Super Bulky Weight

Premier Basix Chenille Brights

Colors

Gray or Light Blue

Vintage White

NOTIONS

Scissors

Stitch marker

Darning needle

Black yarn to embroider details, if you prefer to use safety eyes I’d suggest size 20 mm safety eyes

OTHER

Polyfil

GAUGE

Gauge is not important. Be sure to use a hook that corresponds with the yarn weight of your choice.

FINAL SIZE

Approximately 17″

  • DO NOT publish or sell this pattern in any form, if you’re sharing a pattern with a friend please share my blog with them
  • You may sell creations made from this pattern
  • I love seeing my patterns created by others Please tag me in your creations

ELEPHANT SNUGGLE BUDDY CROCHET PATTERN

elephant crocheted by miss moos boutique

please follow the pattern instructions in order as written

ARMS

make two.

beginning with gray

Round 1. 5 sc into mc (5)

Round 2. inc, *cc white bobble, cc gray sc in same stitch* x3, inc (10)

Rounds 3-5. 3 rounds of 10 sc

Round 6. *dec* x5 (5)

Rounds 7-21. 15 rounds of 5 hdc

Round 22. Fold the arm in half, like a sandwich, and close with: 2 sc

The arms are not stuffed.

F/O. Leave a short yarn tail. You’ll crochet the arms into the body later on.

EARS

make two.

with gray

Round 1. 8 sc into mc (8)

Round 2. *inc* x8 (16)

Round 3. *1 sc, inc* x8 (24)

Round 4. *2 sc, inc* x8 (32)

Round 5. *3sc, inc* x8 (40)

Round 6. 1 round of 40 sc

Round 7. Fold the ear in half, like a sandwich, and close with 4 sc.

F/O. Leave a short yarn tail. You’ll crochet the ears into the head later on.

TRUNK

with gray

Round 1. 4 sc into mc (4)

Round 2. 1 round of 4 sc

Round 3. inc, inc, 2 sc (6)

Round 4. 1 round of 6 sc

Round 5. inc, inc, 4 sc (8)

Round 6. 1 round of 8 sc

Round 7. inc, inc, 6 sc (10)

Rounds 8-14. 7 rounds of 10 sc

Round 15. Fold the trunk in half, like a sandwich, and close with: 5 sc.

The trunk is not stuffed.

F/O, leave a short yarn tail. You’ll crochet the trunk into the head later on.

LEGS

make two.

beginning with gray

Round 1. 6 sc into mc (6)

Round 2. inc, inc *cc white bobble, cc gray sc in same stitch* x3, inc (12)

Rounds 3-6. 4 rounds of 12 sc

Round 7. *dec* x6 (6)

Rounds 8-23. 16 rounds of 6 hdc

do not stuff the legs

F/O the first leg leaving a long yarn tail to sew up the gap between the legs later on. DO NOT FASTEN OFF THE SECOND LEG.

CONNECTING THE LEGS

Round 25

-CONTINUE IN HDC-

Step 1. with second leg still on your hook ch 3

Step 2. connect 2nd leg to 1st leg with 1 hdc

Step 3. 5 hdc, 1 hdc in each ch spot, 6 hdc

(18 total stitches)

BODY

-CONTINUE IN HDC-

Rounds 26-29. 4 rounds of 18 hdc

Sew up the gap between the legs now.

Round 30. * 7 hdc, hdc dec* x2 (16)

Round 31. 1 round of 16 hdc

Round 32. *2 hdc, hdc dec* x4 (12)

Round 33. You will be connecting the arms in this round:

Step 1 Connect an arm with 1 sc, dec

Step 2 1 sc, 1 dec on the body

Step 3 Connect arm with 1 sc, 1 dec

Step 4 1 sc, 1 dec on the body (8 total stitches)

Round 34. *dec* x4 (4)

Knot the arms and legs now, making sure your knots are very close to the dec rounds.

HEAD

continue in gray

Round 35. 3 sc in each sc (12)

Round 36. *inc* x12 (24)

Round 37. *3 sc, inc* x6 (30)

Round 38. 1 round of 30 sc

You will crochet the trunk on in this round.

Round 39. 13 sc, crochet the trunk into the head with: 5 sc, 12 sc (30)

Rounds 40-43. 4 rounds of 30 sc

If using safety eyes, place between rounds 39 and 40, approximately 4 stitches apart.

Round 44. *3 sc, dec* x6 (24)

You will crochet the ears on in this round.

Round 45. 6sc, 4 sc with an ear, 9 sc, 4 sc with an ear, sc (24)

Start stuffing the head and continue to stuff as you go, make sure the head is nice and round.

Round 46. *2 sc, dec* x6 (18)

Round 47. *1 sc, dec* x6 (12)

Round 48. *dec* x6

F/O. Leave a long yarn tail and close the head. Weave in your ends.

If you haven’t embroidered the eyes, do so now!

TAIL

slip stitch into the back of your elephant and chain 7, staring in the 2nd chain from the hook: 6 sc down the chain. To add the tip of the tail: just snip off a few yarn strands and attach them to the tip of the tail! Trim the yarn tails to your desired length.

Your snuggle buddy elephant is now complete! I hope you enjoyed this pattern and found it easy to follow. I look forward to sharing more patterns with you soon!

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Dragon free plush crochet pattern

by Free Crochet Patterns

This is Steve the dragon! A pattern dedicated to my dad, Steve. My dad loved all things mythical & mystical. Dragons and Unicorns were two of his favorite creatures. I created Steve to honor my dad. It’s a pattern that really means a lot to me, and took a lot of time to create. I hope you enjoy bringing your own Steve to life 🐉

If you enjoy this pattern, please give me a follow on social media and let me know what other free patterns you would love to see! Also, don’t forget to tag me in your creations on instagram. Happy crocheting!! 🧶

You can also purchase the instant download PDF version of this pattern on my archive etsy for $1.50. Now- let’s get to it!

MATERIALS & TOOLS

One skein of each color of Premier Parfait Chunky

Yarn:

• main color (I used ruby)

• accent color (I used black)

• white for horns

(or any size 5 or 6 weight yarn)

-Black worsted weight yarn for nostril and eyebrow

details

-3.5mm or 4mm crochet hook

-Polyfil

-16mm safety/felt eyes (I use this size for parfait chunky)

-Darning needle

-Scissors

-Stitch Marker

How to read the instructions: the instructions written between * * and followed by x# will be repeated that many times. For example *inc* x12. You will increase 12 times.

ABBREVIATIONS

sc- single crochet

dec- decrease (I use the invisible decrease method)

inc- increase

mc- magic circle

ch- chain

sl st- slip stitch

F/O- finish off

BLO- back loops ONLY

hdc- half double crochet

This pattern is worked in continuous rounds. Do not slip stitch unless stated to do so. The pattern is written is US terminology. I am right handed and used the yarn under technique.

  • DO NOT publish or sell this pattern in any form, if you’re sharing a pattern with a friend please share my blog with them
  • You may sell creations made from this pattern
  • I love seeing my patterns created by others! Please tag me in your creations 🫶🏻

STEVE THE DRAGON CROCHET PATTERN

please follow the pattern instructions IN ORDER

Arms

MAKE THE ARMS BEFORE STARTING THE BODY!!

Make two in main color:

1. 4 sc into mc

2. *inc* x4 (8)

3-10. 8 rounds of 8 sc

Stuff tips of arms very lightly, sc closed with 4 sc. (Has to be 4 sc for connecting to the body later.) F/O and leave a short tail.

Nose

Make one in main color:

1. 7 sc into mc

2. *inc* x7 (14)

3-4. 2 rounds of 14 sc

F/O. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing. Nose will get stuffed.

Horns

Make two in white:

1. 3 sc into mc

2. *inc* x3 (6)

3. 1 round of 6 sc

4. *1 sc, inc * x3 (9)

5. 1 round of 9 sc

F/O. Leave long yarn tail for sewing. Horns will get stuffed.

Tail

Make one in main color:

1. 3 sc into mc (3)

2. *inc* x3 (6)

3-6. 4 rounds of 6 sc

-Start stuffing the tail.

7. *1 sc, inc* x3 (9)

8-11. 4 rounds of 9 sc

-Continue stuffing the tail.

12. *2 sc, inc* x3 (12)

13-16. 4 rounds of 12 sc

-Keep stuffing!

17. *3 sc, inc* x3 (15)

18-21. 4 rounds of 15 sc

F/O. Leave long yarn tail for sewing later.

Wings

YOU WILL BE WORKING IN ROWS!!

Make two, starting in accent color:

1. Ch 13 – LOOSELY

2. In the second ch from hook place 1 sc, and continue sc down the chain for 12 sc, ch 1 and turn (12)

3. dec, 8 sc, dec, ch 1 and turn (10)

4. dec, 6 sc, dec, ch 1 and turn (8)

5. dec, 4 sc, dec, ch 1 and turn (6)

6. dec, 2 sc, dec, ch 1 and turn (4)

7. *dec* x2, ch 1 and turn (2)

8. dec, ch 1 and turn (1)

9. 2 sc in same stitch (2) MARK THE FIRST SC

Adding the Wing “details”:

continuing in accent color

1. sc down the side of the wing. the amount of stitches doesn’t really matter, but I used 9 sc. If you have more or less that is okay. Just make sure you’re placing the single crochets evenly on your work.

2. when you get to the end of the wing, you will now be working on the bottom of your starting chain. You’ll *sc, hdc, sc into one stitch and then sl st into the next stitch* and repeats the sequence between “* *” 6 times. You will have 6 bumps and 6 slip stitches.

3. now sc back up the wing, again the amount of stitches doesn’t really matter. Just make sure they’re evenly placed. I used 9 sc. if you have more that is okay. You’re just framing your work here. When you reach the top, sl st to attach to the sc you marked in row 9 and F/O with a short yarn tail.

Wing Bones

IN MAIN COLOR: (REFER TO PHOTOS)

1. At the end of the wing sl st, ch 1 and sc into the same stitch.

2. sc up the wing, when you get to the point of the wing place TWO single crochets into one stitch.

3. sc down the wing, when you reach the end ch 1 and turn

4. now sc back up the wing and down the wing once more. When you reach the end

F/O. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing later.

Spine Spikes

In accent color

Ch 50. Starting in the second ch, *sc, hdc, sc into 1

stitch. Slip stitch in the next 2 stitches.

* Repeat all the way down the ch. when you get to the last ch place sc, hdc, sc, sl st.

F/O leaving a long tail for sewing onto body/tail.

Legs

Make Two:

F/O first leg leaving a long yarn tail to close up the hole between the legs later on. DO NOT F/O the 2nd leg.

Starting in accent color:

1. 6 sc into mc

2. *inc* x6 (12)

Color change to main color:

3. BLO 12 sc

4-5. 2 rounds of 12 sc

Connect 2nd leg to 1st leg with a sc. This is the first stitch of the next round.

Body

6. 1 round of 24 sc

7. 9 sc, *inc* x6, 9 sc (30)

8-10. 3 rounds of 30 sc 11.

*3 sc, dec* x6 (24) –Sew hole closed between the legs.

-Start stuffing and shaping.

12-14. 3 rounds of 24 sc

15. *2 sc, dec* x6 (18)

16-17. 2 rounds of 18 sc –Continue to stuff and shape.

18. *1 sc, dec* x6 (12)

19. 4 sc, connect first arm with 4 sc, 2 sc, connect second arm with 4 sc

-This is a shift round. Your new starting point is now the stitch next to the arm.

(See arrow)

-Note: you may have to adjust the arm placement depending on how your work spirals.

Head

20. *inc* x 12 (24)

21. *3 sc, inc* x6 (30) -Make sure you have completely stuffed the body.

22. *4 sc, inc* x6 (36)

23-27. 5 rounds of 36 sc

-Insert eyes between rounds 24&25, 6 stitches apart, making sure they are centered.

28. *4 sc, dec* x6 (30) –Start stuffing and shaping the head.

29. *3 sc, dec* x6 (24)

30. *2 sc, dec* x6 (18) -Don’t forget to stuff and shape.

31. *1 sc, dec* x6 (12)

32. *dec* x6 (6)

F/O, finish stuffing and close head.

Assembly

Wings:

Place the wings in the middle of the back. You want the wings a few stitches away from each other but not too far apart, because you will be sewing the spine spikes in between the wings as well.

Sew the wings on by following the wing bones about 1/4 of the way up the back of the body. You can sew a few stitches into the head so that wings don’t get floppy.

Nose:

Sewn on centered between the eyes. Leave a 1 sc gap between each eye and the nose. You can stuff the nose as you’re sewing on to make it a little easier so that stuffing doesn’t show through.

Tail:

The tail is sewn 1 round below the wings, going all the way down to the legs. You may need to pin your work in place before sewing.

Spine spikes and Horns:

Spine spikes are sewn down the MIDDLE of the dragons back. I start at the tail and work my way up, making sure to keep it as centered as possible.

The horns are sewn onto the head on each side of the spine spikes. Start about 1 round away from the spikes. Make sure to stuff the horns.

Finishing Details:

– Add eyebrows and nostril details with a black worsted weight piece of yarn.

-Add belly lines with parfait chunky in your accent color.

CONGRATULATIONS!! You finished Steve the dragon! 🐉 I hope you enjoyed this pattern and found it easy to follow. I look forward to sharing more patterns with you!

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Baby elephant NO SEW free plush crochet pattern

by Free Crochet Patterns

Hello friends! Here’s a free NO SEW crochet pattern, I know everyone seems to really gravitate towards the low sew patterns these days, and I felt like baby elephant was the perfect pattern to share with you all to crochet! She’s a fairly small and quick make 🧶

If you’d like to purchase this pattern, I have a copy of it in my archive etsy store for $1.50! Prices in my archive etsy shop NEVER change 😉

Alright, now let’s get to it!!

NOTES

  • Pattern is written in US terms.
  • The pattern is worked in continuous rounds, do not slip stitch after each round.
  • If desired, use a stitch marker to indicate the
    beginning of your round.
  • Asterisks (* *) indicate repeats.
  • The designer is right handed and uses the yarn under technique.

PLEASE READ:

•DO NOT publish or sell this pattern in any form, if you’re sharing a pattern with a friend please share my blog with them

•You may sell creations made from this pattern

•I love seeing my patterns created by others! Please tag me in your creations

ABBREVIATIONS

mc- magic circle

dec- decrease (I use the invisible decrease method)

inc- increase

* *- asterisks indicate repeats

sc- single crochet

( )- repeat

f/o- fasten off

MATERIALS

HOOK

3.5 mm

YARN

Weight 6- Bulky Weight

Premier Yarns Parfait Chunky

Colors

Baby Blue

NOTIONS

Scissors

Stitch marker

Darning needle

16 mm safety eyes

OTHER

Polyfil

GAUGE

Gauge is not important. Be sure to use a hook that corresponds with the yarn weight of your choice.

FINAL SIZE

approximately 6”

ARMS

make two.

in pale blue

Round 1. 6 sc into mc (6)

Round 2-5. 4 rounds of 6 sc

Do not stuff.

Round 6. Fold the arm in half, like a sandwich, and close with: 3 sc

F/O. Leave a short yarn tail, you’ll crochet into the body later on.

TRUNK

in pale blue

Round 1. 4 sc into mc (4)

Round 2. 4 sc

Round 3. inc, inc, 2 sc (6)

Rounds 4-5. 2 rounds of 6 sc

Round 6. inc, inc, 4 sc (8)

Rounds 7-9. 3 rounds of 8 sc

Do not stuff.

Round 10. fold the trunk in half, like a sandwich, and

close with: 4 sc

F/O. Leave a short yarn tail, the trunk will be crocheted into the head later on.

EARS

make two

in pale blue

Round 1. 6 sc into mc (6)

Round 2. *inc* x6 (12)

Round 3. *1 sc, inc* x6 (18)

Round 4. *2 sc, inc* x6 (24)

Round 5. 24 sc

Round 6. fold the ears in half and sc 2.

F/O. Leave short yarn tail. Ears will be crocheted into the head.

LEGS

make two

in pale blue

Round 1. 6 sc into mc (6)

Round 2. *inc* x6 (12)

Rounds 3-5. 3 rounds of 12 sc

F/O first leg. Leave a long tail to close gap between the legs.

Do not fasten off the second leg.

CONNECTING LEGS

Round 6

Step 1. connect second leg to first leg with 1 sc

Step 2. 11 sc around first leg

Step 3. 12 sc around second leg

(24 stitches)

BODY

continue in pale blue

Rounds 7-9. 3 rounds of 24 sc

Sew the gap closed in between the legs.

Start stuffing the legs and body now.

Round 10. *2 sc, dec* x6 (18)

stuff

Rounds 11-12. 2 rounds of 18 sc

stuff

Round 13. *1 sc, dec* x6 (12)

Crochet the arms into the next round. Due to stuffing techniques and tension this may have to be adjusted to get your arms centered.

Round 14. 3 sc on body, 3 sc with an arm, 3 sc on body, 3 sc with an arm (12)

stuff

HEAD

Round 15. *inc* x12 (24)

Round 16. *3 sc, inc* x6 (30)

Rounds 17-18. 2 rounds of 30 sc

Crochet the trunk into the next round. Due to stuffing techniques and tension this may have to be adjusted to get your trunk centered.

Round 19. 19 sc, crochet the trunk into the head with: 4 sc, 7 sc (30)

Round 20. 30 sc

Place safety eyes between rounds 19 & 20, evenly placed in between the trunk.

Round 21. *3 sc, dec* x6 (24)

Round 22. *2 sc, dec* x6 (18)

Crochet the ears into the next round. Placement may have to be adjusted.

Round 23. 2 sc with an ear, 6 sc, 2 sc with an ear, 8 sc (18)

Start stuffing and shaping the head and continue to stuff after each round.

Round 24. *1 sc, dec* x6 (12)

Round 25. *dec* x6 (6)

F/O. Close the head. Weave in ends.

ATTACHING HAIR

Slip stitch into the top of the head, chain 6, slip stitch back into the head and repeat these steps 2 more times.

CONGRATULATIONS! you’ve finished you’re no sew baby elephant!

I hope you enjoyed this pattern and found it easy to follow. I look forward to sharing more patterns with you all!

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Belly giraffe plush free crochet pattern

by Free Crochet Patterns

Several years ago, I designed this pattern and now it’s time to share it for free for all of you! Now this is one of my very first amigurumi patterns, so the construction of the writing is a little different compared to my current patterns, if you’ve tried them out already.

If you’d like to purchase the instant download PDF version of this pattern (and a baby giraffe pattern as well) it is available on my archive etsy for $1.50. Now- let’s get to it!

  • DO NOT publish or sell this pattern in any form, if you’re sharing a pattern with a friend please share my blog with them
  • You may sell creations made from this pattern
  • I love seeing my patterns created by others!
    Please tag me in your creations
  • My finished giraffe measures around 13″ tall

BELLY GIRAFFE CROCHET PATTERN

SUPPLIES

-any size 4 weight yarn in the colors yellow & brown (or any main color than accent color)

-black for the eyebrows & nostril details

-4mm crochet hook

-Polyfil

-16mm safety/felt eyes (I use this size eye for worsted

weight yarn and parfait chunky)

-darning needle

-scissors

for making a belly giraffe in parfait chunky: you will need 2 skeins of sunshine & a little bit of chocolate

how to read the instructions? the instructions written between * * and followed by x# will be repeated that many times. For example: *inc* x18. You will increase 18 times.

please note that yarn & hook size are just suggestions based on what I personally use

Arms: make two

in main color:

1. 6 sc into magic circle (6)

2. *Inc* x6 (12)

3-14. 12 sc around – 12 rounds.

stuff the tips of the arms lightly. Fold in half and sc closed with 6 sc. knot off and leave a long yarn tail for sewing later OR leave a short yarn tail for no sew option.

Ossicones (horns) : make two

starting in accent color:

I. 4 sc into mc (4)

2. *Inc* x4 (8)

3. *I sc , inc* ×4 (12)

4. 12 sc around (12)

5. *1 sc, dec* x4 (8)

-stuff the top part of the horn-

-color change to main color-

6-11. 8 sc around – 6 rounds

stuff the horn, knot off and leave a long yarn tail for sewing later.

Ears: make two

in main color:

1. 6 sc into magic circle (6)

2. *Inc* x6 (12)

3. *1 sc, inc* x6 (18)

4. *2 sc, inc* x6 (24)

fold the ear in half and sc 4 through both sides of the stitches.

Knot off and leave a long yarn tail for sewing later.

Nose:

in accent color:

1. Ch 6

2. In the 2nd chain from the hook place 1 sc, then 3 more sc down the ch. in the last ch you will inc. On the opposite side of the chain: 4 sc, inc (12)

3. inc, 3 sc, inc, inc, inc, 3 sc, inc, inc (18)

4. Inc, 6 sc, inc, inc, inc, 6 sc, inc, inc (24)

5. 24 sc around (24)

knot off and leave long yarn tail for sewing later.

Spots:

in accent color:

small: make one

1. 6 sc into magic circle (6)

2. *inc* x6 (12)

knot off and leave long yarn tail for sewing later.

medium: make one

1. 7 sc into magic circle (7)

2. *inc* x7 (14)

3. *1 sc, inc* x7 (21)

knot off and leave long yarn tail for sewing later

large: make one

1. 8 sc into magic circle (8)

2. *Inc* x8 (16)

3. *1 sc, inc* x8 (24)

4. *2 sc, inc* x8 (32)

knot off and leave long yarn tail for sewing later.

Legs: make two. Fasten off the first leg, not the second leg.

in main color:

1. 6 sc into magic circle (6)

2. *Inc* x6 (12)

3. *inc* x12 (24)

4-7. 24 sc around -4 rounds

starting the body:

Connect to the 1st leg with a single crochet (see photos below) This single crochet counts as the first stitch of the next round

1. *7 sc, inc* x6 (54)

2. 25 sc, *inc* x4, 25 sc (58) –start stuffing the legs.

3. 28 sc, *inc* x2, 28 sc (60)

4-6. 60 sc around -3 rounds

7. *8 sc, dec* x6 (54)

8-9. 54 sc around -2 rounds –stuff and shape

10. *7 sc, dec* x6 (48)

11. 48 sc around -1 round – KEEP STUFFING & SHAPING!

12. *6 sc, dec* x6 (42)

13-16. 42 sc around -4 rounds – stuff & shape!!! Make sure to keep shaping the belly!

Body continued & starting of head:

17. *5 sc, dec* x6 (36)

18. 36 sc around -1 round

19. *4 sc, dec* x6 (30)

20. *3 sc, dec* x6 (24)

21. 24 sc around -1 round

22. *2 sc, dec* x6 (18)

(note: you will attach the arms next and they are attached over 2 rounds; rounds 23 & 24)

23. 6 sc, attach arm with 6 sc, 3 sc, attach 2nd arm with 3 sc (18)

(note: arm placement MAY have to be adjusted depending on how your work spirals.)

24. Attach the rest of the arm with 3 sc, 15 sc. (18)

25-28. 18 sc around -4 rounds

Stuff the neck really good but not to where stuffing is showing through. You can insert a dowel for extra support if needed.

starting the head:

29. *inc* x18 (36)

30. *5 sc, inc* x6 (42)

31. *6 sc, inc* x6 (48)

32-38. 48 sc around- 7 rounds

Insert eyes between rounds 35 & 36. 6 visible stitches apart. Make sure they’re centered. Go back and stuff the neck some more.

head continued:

39. *6 sc, dec* x6 (42)

40. *5 sc, dec* x6 (36)

start stuffing and shaping the head. Make sure you’re stuffing and shaping it evenly.

41. *4 sc, dec* x6 (30)

42. *3 sc, dec* x6 (24)

keep stuffing and shaping as you go

43. *2 sc, dec* x6 (18)

44. *1 sc, dec* x6 (12)

45. *Dec* x6 (6)

close the circle

Assembly:

-nose sewn between the eyes. Covers 5-6 rounds. Stuff the nose as you’re sewing it on.

—horns sewn 2 rounds from the middle of head. Covering about 3-4 rounds.

-ears are sewn 1 round down from the horn on each side; Use the horns as a guide for placement.

-if sewing on your arms- sew on round 24 of the body

-spot placement can be wherever you want or prefer to put them.

-add eyebrows and nostril details

-to add a tail: cut off a few strands of your main color yarn and attach them through the back of the giraffe, braid the tail and tie a knot at the end of the braid to secure it. cut off a few piece of your accent color and tie them to the ending of the tail. Trim the yarn tails to your desired length.

CONGRATULATIONS! You’ve completed your belly giraffe!

I hope you enjoyed this pattern and found it easy to follow. I will be posting my other retired patterns to my blog as well! Hope to see you soon! 🧶